#136 Jam McManus: Climbing Lhotse Without Supplemental Oxygen
About this episode
Join coach Larry Goldie for a conversation with Jam McManus. Jam is a high-altitude mountaineer who recently summited Lhotse without the use of supplemental oxygen, making him the first Irish person to do so. He has now set his sights on becoming the first Irish person to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, in 2027.
Episode Guide
00:00:00 Introduction
00:03:25 Jam’s early experiences with climbing
00:10:50 First experiences climbing in the Himalayas
00:12:36 First no oxygen 8000 meter peak attempts
00:15:14 Lessons learned from climbing without supplemental oxygen
00:24:34 How being above 8000 meters without oxygen feels
00:34:23 History of altitude exposure quickens later acclimatizations
00:41:22 Attempting Lhoste instead of Makalu in 2026
00:44:35 Jam’s training and preparation for Lhotse
00:52:20 Mental training
00:58:34 Risk calculations while guiding
01:03:15 Learning from failure
01:06:11 Big picture lessons from climbing and training
01:11:43 Outro and thanks